Day 3 - 19k - Roncesvalles

19k walk today with a steep climb and then a sharp descent to Roncesvalles. The walking poles are coming in handy. Had to put on sun cream today, a good sign. We were expecting our first basic Refugio today but the place has all been renovated, the Hilton for pilgrims. There must be 300 pilgrims staying here. Went to the pilgrim's mass at 6pm which was very interesting. The place was packed so I think the collection must have been healthy. Found a coffee machine that serves up a decent coffee for 60 pence. That's breakfast sorted anyway. Had a pint of JFK´s favourite beer after dinner which was good. Will leave the luxury accommodation behind today.